We've moved!

....well, sort of. Not the farm, of course — the blog! Just head on over to bhranch.wordpress.com for all the latest. (All the posts from this blog page are over there, too, so you can find everything in one convenient place.) You can even subscribe to have new blog posts delivered by e-mail, straight to your inbox! Here's a sneak peek... see you there!

B H Ranch Photos

Just a quickie — here's a slideshow of photos from "around the farm" that we just added to our Web site! Some neat old family shots along with new ones... enjoy!

Click on a photo once for a description; click again to return to the slideshow.
You can use your arrow keys to move from one image to the next.
Mouse over the slideshow for thumbnails and controls.

Snowy Morning on the Farm

We woke up to a surprise this morning...

A cheery dusting of snow! This can be a major disaster for us here on the farm, but last night's storm left just enough snow to frost everything, without breaking limbs or blanketing blossoms too deeply...

We usually get a tiny bit of snow once or twice each winter here in Auburn, but the chickens seem mystified by it each time. Red studied the new strange carpet for several minutes before finally hopping out the door to investigate:

Dot was decidedly apprehensive about venturing outside, and didn't seem too keen about cold feet...

And Darla of course had to see if the snow might taste good!

Brenda, our sweetheart of a barn cat, wandered everywhere with me in search of snowy photos — she figured out quickly how to pose for the camera:

Plum blossoms and mushrooms and moss...

And then the sun came out!

Pears and Honey Available Now!

Yep, that's right — we'll be at the Farmer's Market this Saturday with our Bartlett pears and wildflower honey. You can also pick 'em up here at the ranch, where we'll have plums and other fruits and veggies for sale as well. And, if you're looking for a large quantity of pears for canning, we can set you up!

Call 530-823-9096 for questions or farm pickup orders, or look for our "Pears" sign on Dairy Road. We'll be at these Farmer's Markets through September:

• Auburn Old Town, Saturdays 8am–noon
• Roseville Fountains/Whole Foods Tuesday 8:30am–1pm
• Auburn De Witt Wednesday 10am–1pm

For directions and details: www.foothillfarmersmarket.com

Pears are only available for a limited season, and our honey sells out fast, so get yours quick!

Spring Things: Horta, or Wild Greens, Greek-Style

Coco and Dot explore the cover-crop jungle

Well, hello there! It's been a while since we've had any updates here from the farm... springtime is upon us, and that means busyness galore! But no worries, we'll be getting back into the swing of things blog-wise as the days warm and grow longer.

Which brings us to Spring Thing Number One: Horta!


What's that, you ask? Simply put, horta is any combination of wild greens, cooked together and drizzled with olive oil, lemon juice, and a bit of salt. It's Greek village food, a product of getting through the lean times with what you have at hand and enjoying the bounty of the countryside at its best. After all, wild plants are just that — wild — which means they don't need weeding, watering, or even planting. And they are far more delicious and nutritious than most "city folks" realize!


In Greek, horta (χόρτα) literally means "grasses;" that is, green wild-growing things. These are typically spring foods, enjoyed before the bounty of the summer garden arrives, and can be found in most little village tavernas as well as on every kitchen table. The greens are sometimes baked into pies and pites, but they are often eaten as a meal with just a piece of bread and a handful of olives.

In the Greek countryside, you will often see men, women, and children alike picking horta on the roadsides and in olive groves, gathering the greens into plastic bags, bushel baskets, or specially-designed large-pocketed aprons. On one visit to the ancient ruined city of Aptera, in Crete, we watched the site's elderly caretaker gathering horta among the stones and piling them into the back seat of his (very) tiny car. Later in the day, we spotted him — and his car — in front of the village kafeneio, selling his harvest to the other locals.

Clockwise from top left: mustard, more mustard, radicchio, sow thistle (achohi)

Popular varieties of horta in most parts of Greece include amaranth (vlita), dandelion, chicories (stamnagathi), radicchio (radikia), sow thistle (achohi) and mustards, although each region will have its favorites. Because of our Mediterranean climate, most of those will grow quite happily here as weeds, and you probably know of a vacant lot or field in your neighborhood where at least one variety of wild green is already well-established. Of course the usual cautions about picking wild foods are in order: make sure you can positively identify your quarry, make sure it isn't sprayed or growing in contaminated soil (such as a roadside), and, if you are new to foraging, take an experienced person with you if possible! That being said, most of these plants are very easy to identify, and you probably know how to spot several already.

I learned to pick horta from my Papu (that's Greek for grandfather). I'd follow him around when I was little, watching as he snipped mustard and thistle sprouts with a little knife. It always amazed me how the toughest, prickliest, bitterest greens turn tender and delicious with a bit of know-how — and that's really what horta is all about. It became a food by necessity, in times when Greece, particularly the island of Crete, was under invasion as so often happened (Ottomans, Venetians, Romans, et cetera...) Without the luxury of a grocery store, as we are now so used to, people had to grow or find their own food. And when turbulent times made farming difficult, unreliable, or impossible, you had to turn to the countryside to feed yourself and your family. That foraging culture, and self-sufficient mentality, has never left Greece, even in modern times.

And thank goodness for that! As a matter of fact, wild greens are a huge factor in the healthiness of the Mediterranean diet: the original studies that found that way of eating so beneficial took place in the 1950s in Crete, where horta plays a large part in the local diet. Wild foods, and greens in particular, are often far more nutritious than their cultivated counterparts, and are loaded with antioxidants, as well as vitamins and minerals. More on the Cretan diet here!

Wild greens, with a bit of Swiss chard from the garden

To pick horta, find yourself a sharp knife or scissor and a bucket or bag (unless you have already made yourself one of those neat horta-picking aprons!) The greens shrink down considerable when cooked; I usually fill a three-gallon bucket. Look for plants that have not yet started to flower, as those will be the most tender. Remember, the more mature the plant, the stronger the taste — if you aren't accustomed to bitter flavors, you might want to start with the younger greens. Take leaves and young shoots, but be careful not to cut the plant back all the way to the ground or you won't have any seeds for next year's crop! If you cut carefully (think pruning), you should be able to get several harvests from each plant over the season.

After you have picked your horta, you'll need to wash them. We pack them into a clean five-gallon bucket, fill the bucket with water, weight the greens with a plate, and soak them overnight to wash out all the dirt. If you prefer, you could wash them quickly as you would salad greens.

Papu cleaning the horta

The traditional way of cooking horta is to boil it in just enough water until the greens are tender, adding salt to taste before or after cooking. Serve warm or at room temperature, in bowls with plenty of the juice for dipping...


And don't forget the olive oil, lemon, and some good crusty bread!

Kαλή όρεξη! Kalí órexi! Bon appetit!

The Homestead Radio Hour on KVMR

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 — 1 PM
KVMR 89.5 FM Nevada City
www.kvmr.org/webcast

This will be the first-ever edition of the Homestead Radio Hour, a new program focusing on backyard farming and urban homesteading for those who wish to be as self-sufficient as possible, without large amounts of land or time. Learn how you can create a more sustainable and rewarding lifestyle in your own backyard, beginning with this week's feature on chicken-keeping. Hosted by Phyllis and Julia Boorinakis-Harper of the B H Ranch!

Click here for our virtual coop tour.

Visit our KVMR program page for resources, audio, and more!

And here's Techno Chicken:

Mushroom Hunt!

Spring may not "officially" arrive for another month or so, but you'd never know it here in the foothills! The days are growing longer and warmer, and the ground is carpeted with little green sprouts eagerly drinking in the sunshine. The apricot and almond trees are on the verge of bursting into bloom, and we're almost done pruning the pears and grapes — any day now their first leaves will show. Yellow mustard flowers dot the orchard; the chickens roam to and fro snacking on tender shoots and tasty grubs.

This is the best day of our lives!

The flowers and green growing things may be the most obvious signs of Spring, but look closely and there are others, stranger and more subtle...

Remember that New Year's resolution about foraging and mushroom-hunting? Well, this weekend our mushroom-loving pals Thea, Gayle and Jay came over to see just what is hiding in the woods — we found and identified quite a variety of fungi, and, yes, at least one is edible!

Awaiting identification — despite being on the kitchen counter, these are not all OK to eat.

Thea, Gayle, the field guide, and a pile of mushrooms!

Some mushrooms are unabashedly showy, like these "turkey tails" growing on a pine stump...

...while others are sneakier, like this Helvella, the Fluted Black Elfin Saddle. (Aren't those names just the best?!) At first glance from above, you might miss it entirely; it looks like a shriveled, crumpled little black thing, unremarkable and kind of icky. Get down to eye level, however, and it's quite a beauty in its own weird way:

Speaking of weird, check out these club fungi — again, you might not see them at all at a casual glance!

The find of the day — in the edible department, anyway — was this gorgeous blewit, Clitocybe nuda. I had seen these surreal, lilac-colored mushrooms growing under the oaks before, but had no idea that they are a prized edible! (Of course, that doesn't mean you should go eating wild mushrooms because they are purple; the blewit isn't the only one.)

Here's the blewit in its native habitat:

Like most all wild foods, mushrooms are seasonal; different varieties appear at different times of year, and most prefer the damp, rainy season from autumn to spring. In other words, now is the time to get outdoors, crawl around in the leaves, and appreciate these mysterious beauties! If you're interested in hunting for edible mushrooms, find someone with knowledge and experience to go with you — don't try it alone, even with a field guide in hand, as mushrooms are subtle things and their defining characteristics can be deceptive to the untrained eye. But, even if eating them gives you the willies, hunting for and identifying mushrooms can be a strangely addictive pastime. Contrary to what most of us have been taught at an early age, mushrooms are not all toxic, and they will not poison you if you pick them up (just don't go licking your fingers!) Why not try making some spore prints? Just find a mature mushroom, snip or cut off the stem, and place the cap, gills down, on a sheet of paper. Mushroom spores vary in color from pale buff to inky brown; try both white and black paper to see which one the print shows up best on. Cover the caps with a bowl or glass to prevent drafts, and leave them for several ours to overnight. The white spore print in the image below is from an Oak-Loving Collybia, Collybia dryophila, found growing — you guessed it, under an oak tree.

If you are intrigued by the thought of mushroom-hunting, here's a great introduction to how they live, what they really are, and some common species: What is this thing in my yard? Your local public library is also a great place to find mushroom field guides; the Placer County Library has quite a few, and borrowing them is a good way to find out if mushrooming is your kind of hobby, as well as finding a guide that works well for you. Mushrooms Demystified, by David Arora, is Thea's recommendation — it features dichotomous keys for identification, plenty of photographs, and very thorough (and entertaining) descriptions.

While you are out scouring the woods for fungi, keep an eye out for poison oak — it's sneaky this time of year, without its telltale "leaves of three," but the bare stems can also release their nasty oils if disturbed. And if you do get hungry, there's plenty of miner's lettuce at this time of year to snack on! It's much easier to identify than mushrooms; most children around here learn when they are quite small to recognize its tasty parasol-like leaves. The plants are also a good indicator for the kind of moist, loamy soils mushrooms love. Here's a particularly verdant patch growing along with another wild edible, chickweed:

Happy hunting!

Rare Fruits, New Trees and Heirloom Seeds

We're just back from the California Rare Fruit Growers' annual scion exchange in Sacramento, which is The Place To Be if you're a tree collector! Members bring and give away cuttings from their unusual fruit trees, which can then be grafted onto an existing tree or rooted in soil, depending on the variety. The cuttings are labeled with the variety, and the names are often wonderfully evocative: Blue Celeste, Col de Dame Noir, and Igo figs; Diamond Muscat grape, Shangri-la mulberry, Rossenkya persimmon, Parfianka pomegranate... not to mention the hundreds of varieties of apples, peaches, plums and cherries. It's a great way to preserve rare and heirloom varieties, and to add some character to your orchard!

Apricot, Fig, and Plum cuttings

If you missed the exchange but would like to start some new trees of your own, not to worry — now is the time of year to start thinking about propagation. It's quite easy to root cuttings such as grape and fig, and local nurseries and garden clubs often hold grafting classes in the winter and spring. For information and instructions on rooting cuttings, check out our blog post from last year right here.

In other news, we're hard at work — despite the mud — adding new Bartlett pear trees to our 90-plus-year-old orchard! With a bit of luck, these little guys will provide pears for the next 90...

Digging the planting holes took some heavy equipment:

And now, in the Discoveries department: On a recent trip to Bodega Bay, we passed through Petaluma, and happened upon a striking old bank building with the words "Heirloom Seeds" painted on the windows. Curious, we stopped to investigate — and found ourselves in the fantastic Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Bank:

I could have spent all day in this place! Hundreds, probably thousands, of heirloom seed varieties, housed in the gorgeous historic Sonoma County National Bank building, arrayed on shelves tailor-made for browsing. The company, family-run by Jere and Emilee Gettle, is based in Missouri and recently opened its first outpost — the Seed Bank — in Petaluma. Their catalogue is a delight, brimming with information and lovely photographs that will make you long for Spring. And, of course, the seeds themselves: giant "Yellow Monster" peppers, gooseberry gourds, a veritable rainbow of winter squash, antique sweet peas, Flamingo Pink Swiss chard, Japanese morning glories, Speckled Trout lettuce... you get the idea! Their catalogue is free, and available here. And, if you happen to be anywhere near Petaluma, the seed bank is definitely worth a trip!

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds can be found on the Web right here: rareseeds.com

Happy New Year!

As the new year begins, we'd like to thank to all our friends and customers for making 2009 such a memorable year, full of good food and company at the farmer's markets, on the farm, and beyond. Here's to 2010 — may it bring health, happiness, and good things to all!

A few of our goals for the new year...

1. Organic certification! We've been transitional organic for the last three years — growing organically, but "unofficially" so, which means we can't legally call ourselves "organic." Go figure... so, this year it's time to get busy with the paperwork!

2. Even more local food! (We hope this one is on your list, too.) The Auburn Old Town Farmer's Market runs year round, so there are no excuses... you can find fruits and vegetables, yes, but also bread, eggs, meat, and even fish as well! Our chickens are just starting to lay again — a backyard flock is a great way to have fresh and local eggs, by the way — so we have the eggs covered, but local meats are at the top of my shopping list this year. We love the local lamb from Dan Macon's Flying Mule Farm, and the beef and pork from Bob Sorensen at Coffee Pot Ranch. The Longhorn Meat Co. in Auburn is a great source for grass-fed meats.

3. Bake bread more often. Nothing beats the satisfaction of making your own bread, and it makes the whole house smell so good! Not to mention that it ties in nicely with the whole "eat local" thing. On the to-do list: search out local flour; experiment with different kinds of breadmaking, including sourdough and traditional Greek prozymi

(natural leaven); and try out the suspiciously easy methods in Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François. Five minutes? Really? Yes, please!

In other words, more meals like this... déjeuner sur l'herbe, Sfakia, Crete, spring 2009

4. More preserving projects! I'll be scouring the Farmer's Market this week for cabbages to make sauerkraut, and I'm daydreaming of homemade prosciutto, pickled green beans, blackberry jam, and feta (no, I don't mean all on the same plate!) The process of transforming one food into another is addictively satisfying, and simple foods, like olives and cheese, make so much more sense when you make them yourself. It's hard to explain — but try it and you'll know exactly what I mean.

5. Learn more about weeds. What they tell about the soil, where they came from, and, of course, what they can be used for — speaking of which...

6. More foraging! Wild greens, yes, of course — look for a blog post about horta coming soon — but mushrooms, too. The woods around here are positively carpeted with fungi at this time of year, and we're making plans with some mycologically-minded friends to track down the edible ones soon! Just remember, when collecting any kind of wild comestibles: Be certain you can properly identify the plants or mushrooms you are looking for; know if there are any look-alikes that may be less wholesome; and, if you're going by guidebooks in your search, have at least two of them so you can cross-check the descriptions, especially of you are unfamiliar with your quarry.

7. Year-round gardening! This year we're doing more winter gardening — kale, chard, lettuces, garlic, onions, radishes, carrots, and so on. We also planted butternut, acorn, and hubbard squash this summer, all of which are excellent keepers and have been gracing the dinner table regularly lately... such a treat to have homegrown food in the winter months!

. . . . .

And what better way to start of the new year than with a breakfast of fresh-baked soda bread, homemade plum jam, and a grapefruit from a friend's tree. Cheers!

Winter Wonder: Why We Love Loquats!

Meet one of the coolest trees around... the lovely loquat, Eriobotrya japonica, a true Tree for All Seasons! What makes it so special? Well, for starters, it blooms right now. The dark of winter — December, January — when few, if any, plants are in flower. But the Loquat ignores all Common Sense ...

... and bursts out in full bloom, much to the delight of the honeybees! (If you look closely at the photo above, you can see a bee carrying her pollen stash on her legs.)

One thing a photo can't capture is the fragrance... heady, sweet but never cloying, a trace of vanilla... it's unlike anything else, and I look forward to it all year. It has a marvelous way of drifting, traveling with the breeze and drawing you — and the bees — straight to the source!

The small, cream-coloured flowers aren't overly showy, but the trees themselves have a lush, almost tropical beauty: foot-long, vividly green leaves, shiny on the tops and fuzzy underneath. As a tot, I would make loquat "shoes" every summer by tying the biggest leaves I could find to the soles of my feet with strips of grass. Come to think of it, when the weather warms up I just might make another pair; one can never be too old for Loquat Shoes!

And, of course, there's the fruit — golden orange, sweet-tart, and filled with five or six giant, mahogany-brown seeds. Really, they contain far more seed than fruit, but we did make a tasty loquat marmalade one year...

... and the seeds themselves are worth saving, as they are easy to sprout if you'd like a loquat tree of your own! Just dry them for a week or so, then plant at a depth of about 1/2 inch in gallon pots, and keep moist but well-drained until they sprout. We usually have a few extras growing to give to beekeeper friends:

For such a showy tree, loquats are really quite well-behaved — no invasive roots or shoots, little raking or pruning required, tolerant of cold and heat, drought and frost. And, for the little care they do ask for, you'll be rewarded all year long with luxuriant shade, tasty fruit and that splendid winter perfume! What more could you ask for than a loquat tree in your yard?

P.S. If you'd like some seeds to grow your own tree, just drop us a note! — bhranch @ gmail . com

Making Olives — Part Two

Being Greek, our family has made olives for generations. I have vivid memories of sitting in the wine cellar on chilly winter evenings, dunking into Papu's gigantic ceramic crock with a long-handled ladle; fishing out briny, bright-green and scrumptious homemade olives, and (occasionally) eating so many as to spoil my appetite for dinner. Water-cured olives (see previous post) are a bit simpler to make, but lye-cured olives have a particularly rich, almost buttery flavor that make them well worth the extra effort. And, really, it's a much shorter process than the weeks of soaking-and-draining necessary for water-curing; you'll just need to set aside a day or so when you can tend your olives every few hours.

In the olden days, everyone around here would use Lewis Lye for making olives. Nowadays — at our local hardware store, anyhow — our friend Lewis has been replaced by a product with the rather alarming name of "Rooto." It's sold as a drain cleaner, and costs three or four dollars a bottle (plenty for several batches of olives.) Just make sure whatever kind you buy clearly specifies "100% Lye" or "sodium hydroxide" on the label. If it doesn't, or if there are any other ingredients in the product, don't buy it; go to another store and try again. Look for lye in crystal form — liquid or flakes may measure differently and throw off the recipe.

It goes against everything your mother, grandmother, and kindergarten teacher ever taught you to put something called "Rooto" — found in the drain-cleaner section of the hardware store — in (or even near) your food, and, yes, you should use caution here. Lye is nasty stuff, as the riot of warnings on the label will inform you. Read those, okay? Make sure that you only use glass, plastic, stainless steel, ceramic, or wooden containers and utensils for this project, as some metals can react with lye to produce hydrogen gas or poison your olives. It's also highly corrosive, and can cause serious burns to skin. Treat it like bleach, and act accordingly: don't touch it with bare hands, and if you are accident-prone, wear goggles and gloves to be safe. A short list of things that should be kept far away from lye:

• Aluminum, tin, and galvanized metal containers and utensils
• Skin and eyes
• Food (other than the olives, of course)
• Children
• Pets
• Clothing
• Anything you really value

All that being said, there's really nothing to be afraid of when it comes to making lye-cured olives. Just use common sense and caution in handling the lye, and follow the directions, and you'll be just fine. All the lye gets washed out of the olives by the time you finish them, so they are quite safe to eat — and you'll be in good company with the Scandinavians and their lutefisk, or the Native Americans and their hominy, or even the Germans with their pretzels... (hey, olives aren't the only food you can make with lye! Just don't get carried away with the experiments.)

You'll need mature green olives for this recipe. To make sure olives are ready to be picked, give one a squeeze; a milky white juice should show. A tree will usually have olives of various stages of ripeness on the same branch, so if there are some red or black fruits on the tree, their greener neighbours are probably mature enough to be picked.

Olive trees are often planted for their looks; these are the trees that spangle the sidewalk with smashed purple fruits come autumn. The next time you spot an olive tree heavy with fruit, ask its owners if you might pick a bucket or two — chances are, they would be only too thrilled if you would please take the entire crop, far, far away, and do with them whatever you like, just get those foul little things out of our yard... so, of course you must now call all your friends and have yourselves an olive-making party!

Lye-Cured Green Olives

That gigantic olive crock has gotten a little too cracked and pitted from so many years of lye and salt (not to mention age itself), so this year I'm using a five-gallon food-grade plastic bucket instead... it works just as well, even if it isn't quite so nice, and will do the trick until I can find another crock (ideas, anyone?) Whatever your container, fill it about half full of olives — in this case, about 2 1/2 gallons of fruit.

This is a combination of my grandfather's and uncle's recipes for lye-cured olives. The lye soak takes anywhere from eight to twelve hours or longer, so plan carefully when you will start it. If you put your olives in to cure at 9 in the morning, they should be ready to rinse before bedtime; if you start them in the afternoon, you may be up all night checking them. After you have done a few batches and have an idea of what to expect, you could start them in the evening, let them soak overnight, and rinse them in the morning. Be sure to set up near a garden hose with household water, away from plants or lawns, preferably on gravel or pavement that you don't mind getting a bit stained temporarily (the lye darkens everything it touches, but this should eventually wash away.)

ingredients and supplies:
• Mature green olives (once again, even size and ripeness is important; you want them all to finish curing at the same time)
• 2/3 cup lye (100% pure)
• 2 1/4 gallons cold water
• Two ceramic, glass, or plastic containers — five gallons is a good manageable size — one for olives, the other to mix lye and brine in
• Lid for container, or piece of plywood or similar to cover
• Wooden, plastic, or stainless steel long-handled spoon and tongs
• Old washcloth or other small piece of fabric (white or undyed; colors may leach)
• Colander (plastic or stainless)
• Rubber gloves (and goggles if you like)
• Garden hose with household/potable water
• Stainless steel knife

Rinse and drain the olives; place them in the bucket you want to make them in. Pour 2 1/4 gallons cold water into your mixing bucket, and sprinkle the lye over the surface. Use the long-handled spoon to mix well, being careful not to splash. The lye will sink to the bottom and form a crust; be sure to scrape this up and dissolve it thoroughly into the water.

The lye will heat the water as it dissolves; if you start with very cold water, it won't be too warm for the olives (you don't want to cook them.) If the outside of the bucket feels warm, check the temperature — it's OK if the mixture is below 70°. Otherwise, allow it to cool before proceeding.

Pour the lye solution over the olives and stir. If you have extra lye solution left, pour it down a household drain — never near plants or down a storm drain.

For the first hour, stir the olives every fifteen minutes to prevent them from blistering in the lye. After that, stir every hour or two. Cover the surface with a washcloth or other piece of fabric; this will keep the olives from darkening with air contact. (Use the tongs to position the cloth.)

After about four hours, fish out one of the olives with your spoon, rinse it well, and slice it open to the pit. You'll notice a ring of yellow-green flesh around the outside, while the inside will be a creamy white. The yellow area is where the lye has penetrated, while the white has not yet been reached — eventually, you want the entire inside to be yellow. Check a couple olives again after six hours, and continue to check every hour after that.

The yellow areas will darken to brown with air exposure, making it easier to see how deeply the lye has penetrated. The olive on the left has been in the solution for four hours, while the one on the far right is almost finished, after nine hours. This batch of olives took about 9 1/2 hours total to soak; when the olives start to sink, instead of float, you'll know they are almost done.

As soon as the olives are completely yellow inside — check three or four of different sizes — carefully pour off the lye solution, wearing rubber gloves. (We covered the top of the bucket with a large colander and inverted the entire thing.) Rinse several times with clean water, until the water is no longer brownish.

Now that the lye has leached the bitterness out of the olives, you'll need to leach out the lye. This can take several days to a week, depending on your method and the size of the olives. We stick a garden hose all the way to the bottom of the bucket, set it on a slow trickle, and place the bucket lid or a piece of wood ajar on top to keep out leaves and curious critters. If you don't want to leave your water running, you could also just fill the bucket with water and then change the water several times a day; this method may take a bit longer. Either way, give them a stir once in a while, and slice into an olive occasionally after a day or so to see if it still feels soapy or slippery inside.

When the water no longer looks brownish, yellowish, or pinkish — after at least several days — slice open an olive and carefully taste it. When you can no longer detect any lye (it has a soapy taste), drain the olives and mix the brine:

Fill your mixing bucket with water — as much as you used to mix the lye, in this case 2 1/4 gallons — and add salt, stirring to dissolve thoroughly, until an egg (unboiled) floats in the brine, with a dime-size area of shell showing above the surface. Pour brine over olives and allow to set for at least several days before eating; you may wish to rinse the olives or soak them for a few hours in water to remove some of the salt before eating them. They may be portioned into pint mason jars and marinated with oil, vinegar, and/or whatever herbs you like — my uncle John makes fantastic olives with garlic and lemon, and oregano or thyme, or even chilies would also be delicious. Keep marinated olives in the refrigerator; your regular olives may be stored, in brine, for months in the fridge or even just in a cool place. (If the olives in brine start to feel a bit "slimy," drain them and add a new batch of brine; the olives are good as long as they remain firm in texture.)

* * *

Making lye-cured olives isn't scary or dangerous or even all that complicated — it just takes a bit of caution and patience, and the results are well worth every bit of work that goes into them! The UC Extension publication "Olives: Safe Methods for Home Pickling" has plenty of information on lye-curing olives, including safety tips and instructions for canning or freezing your olives. It can be downloaded for free here: http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/Olives/8267.aspx